LONG LIVE PROSECCO. DOWN WITH CHAMPAGNE

Prosecco versus champagne: is the challenge possible? This is the premise for Francesco Festuccia's book-interview with Gianluca Bisol, a leading producer of prosecco. The book intends to revive the secrets of a wine that enchanted Alberto Sordi, one of Italy's all-time most important actors.

On a lovely day in September 2001, at the Locanda da Lino in Solighetto, a charming red building once used a post house, the great Alberto Sordi while relaxing with friends, gave heartfelt, genuine and charming praise to Prosecco with these words: “You see, our country knows how to produce nectar like this, a light wine that nevertheless has a great soul, which spreads happiness, satisfies the palate and can accompany any type of food. (…) Prosecco does not need to be envious of a Spumante sparkling wine, and even less so of the much praised Champagne. The only difference between them is simply in the French people's great ability at selling their products.  Watch how a Frenchman carries a bottle of Champagne to table. For a start, he would hold it in his arms like a statue of Baby Jesus and then place it gently on the table, proceeding swiftly onto the ceremony of unwrapping the foil around the cork, untwisting the wire with measured, sure movements and culminating in the slow, very slow easing of the cork from the bottle to admiring, religious silence until it breaks free with an imperceptible “pluff”. After sniffing it, he will then serve us with a drink that, conditioned by the reverent ceremony, we will be unable to define as anything but nectar. Compare this with the way an Italian man would present a good bottle of Prosecco. Grabbed by the neck, it would be energetically thumped onto the table. The foil pulled off quickly and, once the wire is dismantled, the cork is left to fly out and hit the ceiling … the first froth of wine would pour onto the table at which point, all present, following the national tradition in Italy, would dip their fingers into the clear liquid and wipe them behind their ears while exclaiming “Happiness, it's good luck!” And they would drink distractedly, without fully appreciating the magnificent wine they are tasting! While I have drunk Champagne and Spumante in my life, today I prefer and enjoy the great Prosecco.”

Narrative gathered by Paola Comin, published in On the Walls they write "Long live prosecco. Down with champagne". An interview with Gianluca Bisol by Francesco Festuccia. Published by Sovera Editions, 2010.

(photo by Ennio Calice)